A little over a decade ago my brother- in- law Tom called me up and asked if I wanted to help him shop for some clothes that actually fit. Tom is “big- boned,” to put it nicely. He’s 6’3”, was a quarterback at Penn State twenty years ago, and nowadays looks like he was built in a kitchen cabinet showroom. “Arthur,” he told me. “I feel like I’m wearing my dad’s hand-me-downs when I go to meetings with clients.” I spent an afternoon with him wandering around King of Prussia Mall sobbing inside.
For as long as I’ve been wearing suits and dress shirts that fit correctly, I had never thought too much about what it’s like when you can’t find anything off-the-rack that fits. Whether it was a button-up or suit jacket, Tom couldn’t find one item that wasn’t either going to pop open at the chest or hang so loosely around his waist that he looked like he was wearing a hospital gown. Tom didn’t know the first thing about shopping for clothes but it was stunning to watch a smart, handsome, successful man pick up a dress shirt and have absolutely no idea where to button it.
He tried shirts that were tight around his chest and laughed maniacally at how much they bubbled around his waste. He tried XL sweatshirts that landed somewhere around mid thigh.
The men’s “Big and Tall” section is a sad, sad place.
Everything’s polyester. Giant logos on polo shirts. Horrible paisley prints that evoke memories of the dad wearing rug burn back in the ’90s.
I stood there mortified as Tom pulled up a pair of dress trousers that stopped somewhere around mid-thigh and asked “are these capris?” He tried on a 2XL dress shirt that would have fit three of him across but couldn’t even cover his shoulders lengthwise. < img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears. co. uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_1.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_1″> If I’m being honest, that day was when I felt like spoiled and ultra-privileged. I’m 5’10”, roughly 165 pounds, with what I would consider a relatively average build. Clothes have always fit me without too many alterations.
That afternoon I realised that I’ve been afforded every benefit of the menswear industry’s sizing standards. I’m close to their idea of the “average” American, and dressing myself has been easy as a result. I began obsessing over what brands did and didn’t work for men with disproportionate body types.
I’ve dragged unsuspecting coworkers, friends, and family members into countless dressing rooms over the years, frantically taking notes on where the shoulder seams hit and making horrible faces in mirrors as I attempted on shirt after shirt that just wasn’t right. My wife thinks I’m crazy. I don’t mind admitting that I’ve annoyed a lot of retail employees while on my quest. “Most people don’t care.
They just buy clothes that fit somewhat and enjoy their lives,” Margaret told me a few months ago as I described the findings of yet another clothing fitting expedition. She’s probably right. But why should you just accept clothes that “sort of” fit you?
If you’re on the taller and thinner side of the spectrum – think Jon Hamm frame (or straight up basketball player) – then Banana Republic’s tall line is going to serve you very well. The reason is simple: their tall sizes actually run tall sizes. Banana Republic dress shirts in their “tall” sizing come in sleeve lengths up to 36”, which actually reach your wrist when worn.
Everything about their tall line is proportioned correctly without looking like you stole your brother’s clothes. Wait for sale to purchase from Banana Republic. They’re always having sales. < img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears. co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_2.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_2″> Bonobos is my secret weapon for guys with bigger frames.
If you’re a bigger gentleman that carries most of your weight in your midsection, then Bonobos has been amazing. Bonobos is the online trouser company that inexplicably was bought by Walmart a few years ago. Don’t let that discourage you- the product is actually still quite good.
What makes Bonobos great is that they actually offer multiple fits for every waist size. Lit Ever heard the saying “you can have it tight or you can have it loose, but you can’t have both”? Every waist size should offer multiple thigh and seat fits.
Let me say that again. . Having worn regular fit Bonobos trousers for years, my friend from law school Bill realised he had been putting up with overly tight trousers just to accommodate his love of cheeseburgers. He would buy a size too big to fit his thighs, then wear his trousers around his hips with a belt.
The result looked as horrendous as you’d think. When Bill finally discovered Bonobos offered an “ athletic” fit he nearly cried. “ Arthur,” he texted me from the Bonobos showroom. “ These things fit my ass AND they don’t autumn down. Hideous sweatpants solve both of those issues for me.” Pick a style that fits your body type.
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Bonobos has multiple different cuts for different body builds. My barrel chested colleague Glenn prefers their “tony” fit, while Slim Silva opts for “slick.” Charlie got married last year and had to buy a new suit. He is built like Andrew Wyatt from Silk Sonic.
He’s broad shouldered with a narrow waist, and most stores only carries shirts that fit his waist and make his shoulders look stiffly gigantic. Their “extra slim” fit with stretch works incredibly well for built guys. Laughs are guaranteed if you walk into their showroom.
Charlie ended up buying a suit there that looks great on him. Once you find your style, look for coupon codes when shopping at Bonobos. They offer sales semi-frequently, but also have a newsletter that regularly emails bonus discounts. < img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_3.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Affordable_Brands_That_Get_the_Most_Right_for_Diff_226fff6c-42bf-43d5-a9f2-ddc7acd14940_3″> Speaking of short men, Peter Manning NYC caters to small men like no other brand I’ve found.
When I say small I don’t mean skinny- all men are welcome. I’m talking about men under 5’8” who are tired of wearing clothes that resemble pillow cases hanging off their bodies. If you’re under six feet, Peter Manning NYC has your back.
They literally built their business around properly proportioned clothes for smaller men. It’s pricey, but again think about how much you spend on alterations because your clothes don’t fit you properly out of the store. I had a client who cried when he found PMNYC.
He’d spent years getting every pair of trousers hemmed up, shirts shortened in the sleeves and body, jackets altered around the waist. The day he walked into PMNYC and bought a shirt, trousers, and jacket that fit him perfectly out of the box he was in tears. It’s emotional for a reason.
Slim guys with broad shoulders: try Charlies Tyrwhitt. You’d assume that any men’s store would cater to athletic body types since MEN’S bodies are athletic. Most just make you choose between having shirts that fit your shoulders or your waist.
Charlies Tyrwhitt has consistently proved to me and slim friends of mine that having a shirt that fits both your shoulders and waist isn’t a pipe dream. The shirts stretch enough where your sleeves actually fit your arms, yet aren’t so stretchy that they look like leggings. Go for their extra slim fit with stretch.
Wait for a sale or promotion. The quality is great so these shirts will last you years if you care for them. Duluth Trading Company is also great for men that need a bit more room all over.
As opposed to Big and Tall sections that just let you slide into longer trousers, Duluth has always been fantastic at providing generous sizing that doesn’t make you look like you’re wearing a tent.
They’ve recently expanded their offerings into less workwear heavy clothing, including office-appropriate button ups and trousers. My neighbour swears by their dress shirts.
Uniqlo is a wildcard that I feel fits pretty much everyone. Their basics have got consistently good over the years. Knitwear stretches when it needs to without losing its shape, runs true to size, and the prices are low enough where you can play around with things.
The men’s version of Target’s Goodfellow & Co. line is also worth checking out. They now offer XS-3X sizes for their basics, and honestly will give you some of the best value you can find. The quality isn’t great- but you’re shopping affordable here.
If you’re just starting to understand what works for your body type I would start here. Don’t @ me if I left your favourite brand that truly understands your body off this list. Like I said before, we have come a long way in the menswear industry but we still have a LONG way to go.
But at least these brands realise that not all men’s bodies are the same, and that different builds require different approaches to proper fit.
