I’ll start this article off with a confession. Last weekend I went through every single pair of shoes I own. And I mean, I counted them.
I didn’ mistakenly toss the tryng to remember if I counted them in my head.. I literally pulled every shoe out of my closet and threw every unorganized pair onto my bedroom floor until I knew the exact number. You ready?
Thirty-one pairs. Thirty.
One.
That’s how many shoes I own. I’m not a professional basketball player, although somehow I’ve managed to accumulate enough shoes in my possession to deck out an entire office. Now, the sad part about owning thirty-one pairs of shoes is that I wear about ninety-percent of them nowhere near as often as I should.
I have a pair of Italian-made Arnio dress shoes that I purchased two years ago and still sit fully boxed in my closet. I wore them twice “for special occasions” and returned home from both events happy that they hadn’t scuffed or messed up my perfect shoes that I somehow thought I needed. They still sit in my closet like shoes that were born to be in a leather museum.
I have beat up old Vans that I wore year-round in college but really should’ve tossed in 2019. Yet here they are every.time.I.purge.my.shoes because they’re “super worn in.” Translation: duct taped together. My girlfriend came over earlier last month to help me move some stuff around in my flat, saw the obscene amount of shoes bursting out of my walk-in closet and piled high on my bedroom floor defeatedly said out loud “Jacob, honestly.
With me though. How many of these do you ACTUALLY wear?” Needless to say, she had me there. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-627″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need._The_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need. The image” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> Do the math.
31 pairs of shoes. Maybe I wear… ten shoes regularly? Okay, let’s be real – it’s closer to six or seven pairs of shoes that I wear on a weekly basis.
The other seventeen + are staring at me every.single.time I open up my equally overstuffed closet taunting me for buying them. Some still have the tags on them from silly whims I had during sale seasons. Others are leftovers of different “style phases” I went through trying to identify my personal aesthetic.
My shoe cupboard is a graveyard of all the excuses I told myself that led to buying crap I didn’t need. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-628″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actlually_Need._The_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actlually_Need. The image” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> The crazy thing is, when I sat down and actually counted everything that I owned. I started thinking about what IF I had to start completely over.
What if I moved to a new city and could only bring one suitcase? What if something happened to my current collection and I needed to rebuild from zero? What types of shoes would I actually NEED to own?
Not want. Not “it would be nice to have for that one specific occasion,” but NEED to feel prepared for 99% of occassions in life. After over analysing this for way too long (my girlfriend will tell you I’ve been oddly obsessed with this question for the past month), I came up with five.
Five TYPES. Once you have these five categories nailed down, you can start building out your wardrobe from there. Don’t worry, I’ll get into what specific shoes I recommend underneath each category but first I wanted to explain why every single guy should own at least one of each type. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-629″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actlually_Need._The_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actlually_Need.
The image” width=”735″ height=”550″ /> First, and hear me out on this because I know what’s about to sound insanely formal – you need a brown leather derby. Not an Oxford. Not some messed up brogue shoe adorned with hundreds of little decorations and tonal markings.
A plain simple brown derby. If I could only recommend one type of shoe to any guy reading this article it would be this shoe. Sure they’re formal, but the open lacing on a derby allows it to be so much more versatile than most people give it credit for.
You can wear them to literally any business setting while still being able to dress them down and wear to dinners or awesome casual outings. I’ve had my Allen Edmonds Derby in “dark chili” for close to three years now and they’ve pretty much became my go-to shoe when I can’t decide what I want to wear. They pair amazingly with everything from navy & grey suits to trousers/chinos and even dark denim if you’re going for a super-dressed up casual look.
Last summer I wore them to my cousin’s wedding, multiple job interviews and ahem…. Even a funeral that I showed up under dressed for before realising I “didn’t own anything black.” <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-630″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need._The_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need. The image” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> The key is finding that perfect shade of brown.
Too light and it doesn’t look right with darker clothing. Too dark and you venture into boot-cut shoe territory (which we already have with black shoes). Go with a medium to dark brown and you’ve hit that perfect sweet spot.
Another thing I highly recommend is spending money on a quality derby. Get something with Goodyear welting so you can resole the damn thing when it breaks down, get great leather that will only get better with age, and find a timeless shoe with a round toe that won’t look outdated as menswear styles shift. You don’t need the most expensive shoe out there but investing in something from Meermin , Grant Stone, or even higher quality Cole Haan will ensure these babies last you a decade or more. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-631″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need._These_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need.
These image” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> Second – and I know you’re gonna frown upon this if you’re like a stickler for traditional men’s footwear rules – but you NEED a pair of white trainers. Alright, not some FILA Ludwins or horrible over produced Adidas with blinking LED lights all over them. And please we’re not talking about those bulky up dad trainers either.
I’m talking minimal. Probably leather. A simple white trainer that a modern Picasso would hang in his artwork museum.
Look, trainer culture has ruined footwear as much as it’s helped evolve it. I can honestly throw on my white trainers with a suit to lazy outdoor weddings, chinos for client meetings, AND yes – even jeans when I’m just running around doing weekend errands. The trick is to keep them minimal.
No big logos plastered across the side. No nonsense design details. Straight up clean lines and high quality materials.
Don’t get me started on how popularized Common Projects became for making their minimalist trainer THE “white go-to” shoe but you literally cannot slip on a pair of white trainers these days and not think of them. That being said, you don’t need to spend $400 on a pair to achieve this look. In fact I actually wear a pair from Gustin that were half the price and have held up JUST AS WELL to *near* daily use for two years. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-632″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need._The_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need.
The image” width=”744″ height=”557″ />Pro tip: don’t obsess over getting them clean or white. Let them develop character and they’ll actually look better for it. Take care of them, stuff them with shoe trees when you’re not wearing them, and they’ll last you years.
Okay third. You need some sort of boot that can handle inclement weather. Whether that’s snow, rain, dirt, mud, or a combination of all three you need boots that can handle mother nature without you looking like you’re gearing up for birth control missions in Afghanistan.
As a Chicagoan, I have learned the importance of finding boots that actually WORK. Sure they look tough but can they handle slush, rain, ice, and look semi-presentable enough not to get laughed at when you wear them to the office on casual Fridays? That’s the goal.
You want something along the lines of Red Wing’s Iron Ranger with a Vibram sole or dress them up a bit with Alden’s Indy boot. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-633″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need._Those_image.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Actually_Need. Those image” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> I opted for Truman boots in this waxy leather that pretty much sheds water and breaks in a hell of a lot quicker while looking better with every time I wear them. They’ve handled Chicago winters, Seattle business trips during their infamous rainy season, and even some beginner hiking when my friends talked me into going on “easy nature walks” that turned into four mile hell-trails.
From October through April these are basically my “go to” shoe unless it’s nice out or I’m trying to dress to impress. Find a boot that can handle getting chewed up by mother nature but is refined enough in design that you won’t look like an asshole walking around. Leather/treated leather uppers, rubber or Dainite bottoms for traction, and streamlined styling that can go just as easy with jeans as it can chinos.
Fourth – you need a dedicated pair of athletic shoes. By athletic, I mean dedicated to the sport or activity YOU ACTUALLY DO. Not what you think you “should be doing” or trying to convince yourself you’ll start next month.
Something to house your feet in WHEN YOU ACTUALLY WORK OUT. I both run and do high intensity interval training (HIIT) so I opted for Brooks Ghost running shoes. They’re by no means the sexiest shoes but they work for both activities and my knees don’t hate me when I’m finished working out.
These shoes aren’t sexy – they’re tools. Performance over fashion every time. And for the love of all things holy, ONLY wear them for working out.
Wearing bulky performance athletic shoes in everyday settings not only looks stupid but ruins the science behind those shoes that make them great at helping you crush your fitness goals. The athletic shoe game has got absolutely crazy. There are now shoes specifically for trail running, CrossFit, HIIT workouts, yoga, tennis, basketball, and even pickleball.
Do you NEED all those shoes? Hell no. Buy one decent pair that’s designed for the activity you actually do and it will handle 95% of your needs. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-634″ src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Still_Actually_Need.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Still_Actually_Need” width=”744″ height=”557″ />Last but certainly not least – you need something lightweight and breathable for summer.
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Don’t even get me started on how disgusting leather shoes feel when it’s 90 degrees and humid outside. They stick to your feet and even mesh trainers can start feeling uncomfortable when the weather turns to shit. This category really depends on your climate and personal style but the category itself is necessary if you live anywhere that experiences seasons.
For me, that meant unlined suede loafers. Alden’s Leisure handsewers to be exact. They’re snuff suede which has broken in and molded to my foot like a comfortable pair of slip ons but still looks put together enough to where I can wear them with everything but the damn tuxedo.
During Chicago’s brutally humid summers, these shoes are the only ones I wear that don’t make my feet feel like they’re sweatin’ mines after two blocks of walking. Could be canvas trainers. Could be unlined leather loafers.
Could even be some quality boat shoes if that’s more your style. Just make sure they’re breathable enough to where you can wear them without socks (or with no show socks) and that they still STYLE WELL with shorts and everything else you own. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-635″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_the_only_5_shoes_american_men_nead..png” alt=”im1979_the_only_5_shoes_american_men_nead.” width=”744″ height=”332″ />” But wait Joshua!” I hear some of you guys say. “What about black dress shoes? You can’t wear brown derbys to weddings and funerals.” Sh*t sounds ridiculous, but hear me out.
If you’re an average American guy, how often do you really get invited to black tie weddings OR own suit-ing enough clothing to actually warrant wearing black oxford shoes? Twice a year? Great, keep that space in your closet available for those other 363 days worth of shoes that YOU WILL wear.
Remember those brown derbys I kept talking about above? They can(and have) take care of 99% of your formal occasions. Just dump your black shoes and stop worrying about fitting into some ridiculous rigid dress code.
That doesn’t meant you can’t buy a nice black shoe as your bonus sixth type. Just know that it will spend way more time shining and sitting in the closet than it will being worn. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-636″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Need.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_Only_5_Shoes_American_Men_Need” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> Now this isn’t me telling you to go through your current shoe collection and start throwing out any shoes that don’t autumn under these five categories. That’s ridiculous and would only create more waste than help you build your initial collection.
When it comes time to replace old shoes or add to your current collection, that’s when you implement these categories. If your favourite trainers wear out, do you REALLY need another trainer or should your money go towards replacing THAT category with something new? Same rules apply if you’re actually staring blankly at an empty closet.
What kind of job do you currently have? If you work in an office setting with business casual attire, start with that brown derby and a pair of white trainers. If you spend most of your week hiking through the Rockies, maybe your boots should be your number one priority.
These categories are simply a guideline that can be tailored to YOUR lifestyle while keeping you disciplined about ONLY buying things you need. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-637″ src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_the_only_5_shoes_american-men__need.jpg” alt=”im1979_the_only_5_shoes_american-men _need” width=”744″ height=”557″ />As far as trimming down my own ridiculous collection goes, I’ve already taken the first steps. For me personally, my overflowing shoe problem has been solved. Going forward I plan on ONLY purchasing shoes that fit into these categories or have an ACTUAL purpose I cannot be filled by something I already own (bye bye burgundy loafers I only wore once but bought because I got promoted to “senior coordinator”).
What I’ve learned about paring down my shoes to ONLY things I wear on a weekly basis? Getting dressed became easier. Instead of worrying about what shoes I wanted to wear or if I should start building a more “minimalist” wardrobe because I have too many shiny things.
Sticking to this train of thought has allowed me to ONLY buy shoes I NEED. Eliminated decision fatigue when I’m getting ready to go somewhere. Sure I have less shoes than I did before but HALF of the shoes I OWN NOW I WORE WEEKLY.
Every. single. day. I knew what I was wearing down to my shoes. Choices became easier and my wardrobe as a whole became simpler to edit through. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-638″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_The_only_5_Shoes american men ._need.jpg” alt=”im1979_The_only_5_Shoes american men . _need” width=”744″ height=”557″ /> Brown Derby My #1 pick for brown derby is Allen Edmonds’.
They offer some of the widest range of colours and widths, and their Derbys come in some of the best construction and highest quality materials out of any “mainstream” shoe brand. Think Goodyear welting, waterproof linings, and fantastic leather. My only complaint about AE is that they’re sort of a “jack-of-all trades” shoe and don’t offer any crazy styling details that sets them apart from the rest.
I would hands down recommend their “dark chili” colour. Super rich chocolate brown that still isn’t too dark to wear with most shades of blue trousers. My second choice are Mercer footwear.
They’re recently been on my radar the couple things I’ve tried on have been stellar. They’re priced right at around the same price range as AE but I felt like their styling was a tad more unique. Lincoln is hands down my favourite brand for slim-fitting, minimalist trainers but their derby is pretty awesome as well.
A bit more dressy than AE but still versatile enough to get away with anytime. Lastly, I wanted to throw in a shoe that was cost friendly. Shoes that won’t break your bank but can also serve as that basic brown derby you can toss on with anything.
McDuff’s has been around for ages, and all of their derbys come with that beautiful grease saddle tan leather that ages beautifully. If you’re wanting to start low and work your way up these are the boots for you. White Trainers Let’s get the obvious one out of the way.
Common Projects. HANDS down the best looking minimalist white trainer out there. Hand stitched, crazy durable and ages like a dream.
My only qualm is the price tag. At around $400 you really need to take your time and find WHITE that’s worth spending that kind of money on. My go-to when I’m in the market for white trainers that don’t break the bank are Gustin.
I actually own a pair myself and they’re probably worth every penny I spent. Two years in and they look better than when I bought them thanks to the subtle patina they’ve developed from me wearing them so often. Keep them polished with some trainer shine or toothpaste and they will last you FOREVER.
But what if white isn’t your colour? No judgment. I get it.
Not everyone can rock those fresh off white trainers. Cheque out Born’s sleek trainers in a darker grey. The styling is identical to their white cousin but allows you ease your way into minimalistic trainers without rocking a pair of radioactive shoes.
Boot If you’re going to spend money on one pair of shoes, these should be the ones. Heavy duty WITHOUT looking bulky. I’m a huge fan of timeless classics that will look good ten years from now and Red Wing’s Iron Ranger is about as close to a perfect boot as you’ll find.
Look for something with a Vibram sole ( they sell some great campers too ) and go with a darker colour. You won’t regret it. Athletic Shoes Your athletic shoes SHOULD be the absolute worst fitting shoes in your entire wardrobe.
Meaning, they shouldn’t fit like any of your other shoes. Buy a shoe with crazy support, hardcore traction on the bottom, and fits SUPER tight. These are the shoes you’re going to destroy so don’t be afraid of getting something boring.
Remember functionality over fashion EVERY SINGLE TIME. If you’re like me and you run. I currently have two pairs of Brooks and they are insanely comfortable.
I used to be team Saucony but recently went to try on some Brooks and realised that I was missing out. My girl actually got me a pair for Christmas so now I’m fully equipped. But if you’re looking for something a little less expensive that offers just as much QUALITY, cheque out Hoka One One.
They specialise in running shoes and have some crazy ultra lightweight options. Summer Shoes Ah Summer shoes. These were BY FAR the hardest shoes for me to pick because there’s something about slip ons I love.
But alas, I have reality to face and shoes with socks don’t breath in July. With that being said, these Alden loafers are amazing.
Made in USA, completely unlined, and go with literally everything but your boxers.
If you’re not into loafers (boo hiss) definitely cheque out Classic Charleston’s single monogram boat shoes. Made right here in America and completely customizable. Plus they’re only $125 which is an absolute steal.
Bonus: Black Shoes If you decided to listen to me and skip the black shoes altogether we can hug it out now. But if you sir, insist on pounding the rocks and buying yourself a nice pair of black oxfords I’m here to help. If you work in an office setting or have to dress professionally on the weekly you NEED a pair of Allen Edmonds Blackstone Oxfords.
They run true to size, have that beautiful Goodyear welted construction, and age INCREDIBLY. And last but certainly not leather, Eastlands. No wardrobe is complete without a pair of Eastlands (seriously guys if you haven’t tried these babies on at your local Joseph A. yet, do it.).
Super affordable and insanely comfortable. The stitching alone on these mother trucks are worth the price tag. <img class=”alignnone size-full wp-image-639″ src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/im1979_guidepodarkblackshoessneakerinsider.jpg” alt=”im1979_guidepodarkblackshoessneakerinsider” width=”1018″ height=”617″ />
