Do you know how you’re rifling through rails of generic polyester shirt-blouses/the same jumper your mother-in-law wore last Christmas/SOFIA MAXWELL for Target when your fingers brush against a slice of heaven? Last week I found a brand-new Paul Smith blazer at the British Heart Foundation shop in Manchester. Forty-two regular.
My size. Eighteen quid. At first I thought someone was watching me for one of those undercover TV documentaries.
I could’ve written that same jacket for £500 new. It was hanging behind the bin bags and housebrand duffel coats, nestled between a misshapen Marks and Spencer cardigan and a psychedelic number that smelled like it still had the IBIZA airport stamp on it.
None of the volunteers behind the till batted an eyelid when I snatched it off its hanger and sprinted to pay.
“Oh that’s lovely,” said one. “Lovely bit of denim.” “That was in yesterday,” added another. She gave me a heart attack, because I’d walked past it the day before thinking I’ll pop back later.
If you’ve read any of my other essays you’ll know thrifting is nothing new to me. I learnt as a law student simply because I had no choice – £9000 a year doesn’t buy you much fabric these days. But over twenty years later it’s become something of a hobby because I love it.
It keeps my wardrobe interesting, saves me a fortune, benefits worthy causes and stops perfectly wearable clothes ending up in landfill sites. Margaret thinks it’s addictive (she calls it my treasure hunting obsession) but she hasn’t complained yet when I’ve sauntered through the door wearing barely-toucheds from Comme des Garcons and Issey Miyake that still have the price tags on for less than the price of a family dinner. I have amassed enough top tips over the years that I could probably write another book.
Disclaimer: I am not claiming to have cracked the algorithm. Yes, part of it is down to luck. But just as when you’re picking lottery numbers, you can tilt the odds in your favour by noticing trends and patterns.
You’ve got my attention with ‘free books’ so I’ll share with you what I know… The geography of thrift is everything. LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION.
Let me geek out on you for a second. The type of charity shop you find in urban/metropolitan centres will be vastly different to the ones in suburban villages and market towns. Understandably.
It’s down to the demographics. Now, I’m not for one second saying you shouldn’t explore those charity shops – treasure can be found anywhere and I have found some of my best bargains in unlikely places – but if you’re after designer thrifted pieces, you’ve gotta follow the trends and cheque out where the wealthy live. Rule of thumb?
Affluent villages and market towns populated with career professional families. Think kids who’ve been bought nice things their whole lives, then got bored of them. Not worn out like the Mother Abibas and Burberry Wellfilbs you find in your average charity shop.
Older kids. Thirty-somethings up to forties/early fifties. You know, with grown-up jobs and salaries.
University towns are great too. There are so many wealthy, young foreigners who only stay term time then leave their barely-worn Alex Mill menswear in the shops over summer whilst they fly back to Kazakhstan/Rome/Mozambique. Scored three brand-new Sunspels once from a University of Oxford shop in June.
Timing of your visits are key. Hits and bins are normally put out Tuesday and Wednesday when the shops are closed over the weekend, so aim for those mornings if you can. Fridays are also good because they’re anticipating the Saturday shoppers.
And please please please for the love of GOD avoid Saturdays. Once I learnt my lesson after maneuvering around crass lumpen proles oogling my purchases in some rammed-to-bits Cancer Research shop in Bath. A nightmare.
January is also one of the best months for menswear. Everybody’s doing their clear-outs after Christmas; sick of their Secret Sisters moonlighting as DJs jumpers, their brothers foisting yet another International Duneland giftcard upon them. See at least half a dozen of the same thing ends up getting donated.
Proof? The ridiculous amount of navy Jumpers I own that were purchased for me by well-intentioned relatives every Christmas. Once you’ve got your strategy mapped out, it’s time to get inside.
First stop? Get thee to the rail with suits/coats/jacket/knitwear. But DON’T JUST LOOK THERE.
Yes obviously they’re your priority but once you’ve gleaned what you can from those fabrics, dig deeper. Most people go straight for the shirts then leave, but the shirt rail is where you’ll find hidden gems. Why?
Because high-end shirt brands (Jaeger, Thomas Pink etc) are usually lumped into the same rail as the £5.99 H&M button-ups. Oh and another tip? Learn to spot the luxury shirts from 10 feet away.
Cheque the buttons – mother of pearl buttons have this gorgeous sheen to them and catch the light differently. See if there’s a split yoke at the back of the shirt (indicates better quality). See if the material flows and falls differently from your standard polyester blend.
It’s mostly down to touch. Real wool, cotton, linen etc have a substance and weight to them that you can’t replicate with a blend. Trust me, I can usually weed out about 80% of anything just by giving it a once-over with my hands.
Margaret teases me about having ‘fabric radar’ but she lets me live. Scan inside labels. A lot of luxury brands won’t have the logo embroidered/printed on the outside.
Flipped one generic-looking navy jumper inside out the other day and it was Jil Sander. I think it was from a sample sale as the label had been cut out but good lord the stitching was immaculate. Flat-locked seams and everything.
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Enough for me to want to investigate further AND keep. Finally, remember the volunteers. There’s no need to be fake here.
Just actually be nice to them. Ask how their day is. Learn their names.
The volunteers at my local British Heart Foundation shop know when I walk through the door that they should save the best bits for me now. ‘We had this lovely linen shirt come in today and thought of you!’ Said Jean last month, pulling a bona-fide Officine Générale beauty from underneath the counter. Honest to god, near brought a tear to my eye.
That being said, there are certain things you will NEVER find in a charity shop no matter how good you think you are. Luxury shoes. Good denims.
THINGS THAT ARE TRENDING RIGHT NOW. Luxury shoes and jeans because people wear the shit out of them. Trending items because the staff/their friends nab them before they even hit the rails.
The ones that break your heart are the misses. You think you’ve found THE ONE. That dream jacket that you’ve been searching high and low for and then when you get it home, it’s covered in stains/doesn’t actually fit you like you thought/heaven forbid it’s actually ripped.
Been there WAY too many times. Twice this year alone. Nearly gave up thrifting for life back in January when I found this Jeff Banks-esque beauty only for it to be 3XL and about 15 pounds too big.
Speaking of the ‘white whales,’ they do exist. You will find Brunello Cucinellis at thrift shops. Not as many as the vintage stores but they’re out there.
Certain thrift shops are better than others at recognising luxury clothing. Our local Mary’s Living & Giving shops for Save the Children knows how to sort out the designer stuff now. You’ll still pay a premium but a lot less than retail.
Same thing with the British Red Cross shop in Chelsea. High-end stuff turns up regularly there too but at higher (albeit still bargain) prices. Go to charity shop wholesalers if you’re after specific brands.
More of a punt because you won’t get that thrill of finding it yourself BUT they already do the research for you. Got some incredible mens vintage from Reign Vintage in London a few years back. Still have the t-shirts today.
Got a beautiful 1960s Aquascutum overcoat in Topman circa 2012 and STILL wear that bad boy today. Quality over quantity, my friends. Online thrifting through Ebay has become so popular now.
Can spend hours scrolling through endless photos. Vestaire Collective and Grailed are amazing if you’re after specific things too. Granted you won’t get the bargains because most people realise what they’ve got but if you’ve been looking for that one elusive piece of Kiton and know exactly what to look for, online can be your best friend.
Personally? I love the thrill of the hunt. Nothing beats digging through rail after rail of clothes.
Okay, now for my newest hot tip. ANY British Heart Foundation shops with furniture/electrical departments will usually have a small clothing section at the back. Nobodyreallylooks behind the sofas.
Scored a perfectly decent Albam chore jacket for a fiver last week in search of a bedside table. Look, I’m not going to lie to you. Sometimes you’ll buy that jacket and take it home and it’ll look awful on.
Sometimes you’ll spend twenty minutes looking for your dream blazer only for some judentious kid to snag it while your distracted. Sometimes you’ll wander into Oxfam on a whim and leave with twenty leather bags. It’s a hobby like any other.
Some days you’re flush with new clothes. Other days you have to start rummaging through the nappies to see if there’s something hiding in there. Last month I had a three-shop clearance after They’d only got Primark and George donations.
Called my mum crying asking if I was having a lack of luck or THE universe was telling me something. Found this Burberry trench in Asda three days later. We all have our off days pals.
Oh and before I forget, DON’T expect to find your Iron Deadstock Anarchs. Sorry to burst your bubble. You will find them, sure.
But once you’re bitten by the hunting bug, you will start seeing them everywhere. On everyone.
Except you.
It’s healthy to want nice things. But AliXxEZ THICC SMALLS are not attainable from your local community thrift shop. Again, wealth equals geography.
And if you’re paying enough for an ‘Alex Miller’ rug to afford Deadstock? You’re not shopping at charity shops. Anyway.
Next time you’re taking that long winter walk. Maybe pop into your local charity shop. See what they’ve got.
For fucks sake though…Leave the good stuff in Manchester for me, yeah? Got my eye on Liberty atm.
