There’s something kind of wonderful about finding quality goods at a retailer you used to overlook. For years, I prided myself on having what I thought was a relatively refined menswear palate. Knowing how to spot good construction.
Investing in well made garments. Cultivating relationships with tailors who could draught and cut my suits just by looking at me walking through the door. So when a young associate in the office casually mentioned that he picked up his exceptionally well fitted white dress shirt from Marks & Spencer I’ll admit I scoffed. “Oh really?” I said. “That’s…nice.” Please note the parenthetical “nice.” That’s what we white people say when we’re trying not to be total assholes about things.
Six months later I’m browsing the M&Spers menswear department at King of Prussia clutching three of their Supima cotton t- shirts marveling at the weight and construction of the cotton. Margaret found this evolution highly entertaining. “You’re the same guy who lectured me for twenty minutes about mother-of-pearl buttons on dress shirts.” she laughed as I held up their merino wool jumpers to inspect stitching and yarn size.
It started when I realised I was wrong.
Flat out incorrect in my assumptions. The problem was I believed you could only get quality clothing by paying premium prices at equally premium retailers. My enlightenment started with a trip to pick up some undershirts.
Nothing too fancy. Simple white t-shirts I could wear under dress shirts in the Philly summer and not worry about showing through or getting bleached out when washing. Something about being across the pond and near an M&S on a weekend trip to visit Margaret’s sister prompted me to cheque them out.
I needed a new pair anyway so why not give their basics a shot? Turns out those undershirts are still floating around in my drawer somewhere four years later. They’ve outlasted everything else I bought that season.
The shirts haven’t faded. The weave hasn’t loosened giving them that translucentedy kind of look cheap cotton does. They’ve held up through wash after wash and they don’t even appear grey.
I excitedly told James (head of litigation and a man with very strong opinions about how one should dress) about my findings and he chuckled. “Been buying their underwear for years.” he said. “Realised that on my secondment in London. Socks too.” And that’s really what started me down this rabbit hole. If M&S could make a quality undershirt what else had I been missing?
I began purchasing items as I needed them – don’t worry I didn’t suddenly become a Closet Freak overnight – and began vetting them like any other clothing item I was interested in buying. How was this constructed? What fabrics were used?
Did it look as good post washing as it did when I purchased it? Would it hold it’s shape after multiple wears? So began my foray into Marks & Spencer.
Here are my findings: Jumpers: Their merino wool crew necks survived every test I could throw at them. The yarn size is on the heavier side. Seaming is finished properly.
They’ve been through an entire winter of wear and show no signs of pilling or losing their shape. I own jumper that cost twice as much that haven’t held up as well. Shirts: Their dress shirts actually might be the best value in menswear right now.
How can that be I hear you ask? Allow me to explain. During one of my business trips I spilled coffee on my shirt halfway through a flight.
Nothing unusual there I’m sure you’re thinking. Except I was nowhere near my hotel until the morning so an 8 AM meeting with a client was at stake. The M&S near my hotel was the only thing open that late and I needed something crisp to wear.
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Thank fuck I did that little experiment beforehand because their pure cotton tailored- fit white shirt was not only serviceable, it was great. Collar didn’t flop around all day, the shirt maintained proper proportions under my suit jacket, and it didn’t require ironing thanks to their non-iron treatment that actually works. M&S gets menswear fit.
We’re not looking at trendy, fashion-forward cuts designed to please a 25 year old here. These guys have properly proportioned shirts that actually fit men who wear dress shirts to work. Roomy enough through the chest and arms that they won’t choke you but not so boxy that they look awkward.
Sleeves are cut to appropriately curl when tucked into suit trousers. Underwear: Let’s talk about their underwear for a second because they really do get it right. The waistbands are properly constructed.
They aren’t uncomfortably tight, they don’t roll when worn, and they’ve retained elasticity after countless washings. Leg openings don’t slip down but they also aren’t overly tight either. Are these groundbreaking feats of underwear engineering?
No. But you would be surprised how many luxury brands can’t seem to figure these things out. I’ve worn expensive underwear that wasn’t remotely as good as this and cost ten times as much.
Knitwear: If there’s one place M&S truly shines it’s knitwear. Their cashmere isn’t going to blow your mind but for someone looking to try the fibre without breaking the bank it’s hard to beat their pricing. The yarn size is on the finer side and blends well underneath dress shirts.
Thin enough that you won’t notice it but thick enough to provide warmth. I’ve been living in their navy cashmere vneck all winter underneath shirts. Tailored: This is where M&S becomes a little more hit or miss but there are diamonds in the rough if you’re willing to look.
Their unstructured blazers can be great. Especially their cotton and linen blends for summer wear. You have to remember that these aren’t business wears these are smart-casual blazers meant to bridge the gap between your dress shirt and suit jacket.
Last spring I picked up their cotton navy blazer to wear during weekend outings where I wanted to look nice without wearing a full suit. The construction is acceptable. Not hand padded or anything like that but they use proper construction, good fabrics, and have functioning button holes.
It took some minor alterations from my tailor (shortened sleeves, waist trimmed) but it ended up being a really solid piece for smart casual functions. They excel at these tried and true wardrobe staples. Their white dress shirts understand that most men don’t need fancypants shirts that need dry cleaning and trips to the shirt doctor after every wearing.
Their non-iron shirts are actually non-iron! I’ve packed these for business trips and when I pull my shirts out of my luggage they actually look like they didn’t sit next to my underwear all weekend. Speaking of trousers, their chinos might be the best cut of any mall- adjacent retail store out there.
Trim without being skinny, heavier fabric that actually drapes, and they offer both 30/32 and 32/34 lengths because everyone knows men have different proportions !
Can’t tell you how many brands think all men’s hips are the same exact size. Marks & Spencer gets who their consumers are.
Men who work in professional environments. Men who need clothes that can take weekly wear and weekly washing. Most of us don’t have the need (or bank accounts) for crazy fancy trousers clothing but we still need to look nice wearing something other than jumpers and jeans all the time.
M&S realizes this and stocks their shelves accordingly. If you had asked me years ago what advice I’d give to a young guy building his professional wardrobe in a city with far more industry than classmates at his state school I probably would have sent you M&S’s way. Solid basics.
White dress shirts, great knitwear, and you can do much worse than their chinos on casual Friday. I’ve passed along specific product recommendations to multiple colleagues when they’ve asked me about professional wardrobes on budget and have been met with similarly positive reactions. There still seems to be this idea that if you want quality menswear you need to spend lots of money on menswear and M&S proves that isn’t always the case.
