Why I Started Buying American-Made (And Which Brands Are Actually Worth It)

January of last year I toured the Red Wing boot factory in Minnesota. I cannot lie – it was brutally cold that week. I’m convinced they unplugged all heaters when I wasn’t looking – but sitting down to watch James hand-stitch Iron Ranger boots will be a memory I’ll never forget.

James’s hands were a blur from decades – literal decades – of repetition making it look like he wasn’t breaking a sweat. He was working on pair 31,536 something when I visited and laughed at me when I asked him why he hadn’t retired yet. “What am I going to do? Sit around and garden?

I’M A BOOTMAKER.” <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made- Brands-Worth-Supporting-And-Why-It-Ma_e7577923-7201-465a-9306-dbb70641f59a_1.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-Made Brands Worth Supporting And Why It Ma_e7577923-7201-465a-9306-dbb70641f59a_1″ /> That’s when it hit me. I was about to spend $350 on a pair of boots. $350!!

Just hearing that price made my wallet instinctively tighten because that’s more money than I like to spend on anything that’s going to be worn on my body.

But watching James work. Knowing that this man could train five guys to make boots in the amount of time it takes me to tie my shoes. Understanding that this was something more than just manufacturing.

This was a craftsmen at work. That my boots were going to be so much better because James wasn’t stitching by the side of machines programmed by robots. He was continuing techniques passed down from artisans who came before him… When I walked out of that Red Wing factory I knew that spending $350 was an absolute bargain.

TL;DR: I used to care where my clothes were made. No…I didn’t. Up until about six years ago I really didn’t give two shits about where my clothes were made.

Target? Hell yeah! Quality control isn’t exactly their thing but whatever.

Old Navy? Sure. Let’s be real… JCrew on sale?

Yup. Bought that too. Jessica use to joke that if someone kidnaped me they could dress me from random holes spit out by a computer and you’d never know I wasn’t some type of fashion guru.

Hint: You would know. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made- Brands-Worth-Supporting-And-Why-It-Ma_e7577923-7201-465a-9306-dbb70641f59a_2.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-Made Brands Worth Supporting And Why It Ma_e7577923-7201-465a-9306-dbb70641f59a_2″ /> But something changed after Red Wing. And by something changed I don’t mean I got hit in the face with an USA! USA! bandeader because I wanted to start throwing money at anything that claimed to be made in America.

I still buy clothes made everywhere from here to Timbucktoo. My favourite jumper was made in Scotland. I have shoes from Italy. (Lets not even get started on how I have an unhealthy love for cashmere.) But what I will do is take the time to seek out American manufacturing when I can.

When it makes sense for my budget but also when it makes sense for the product that I’m buying. Ever since my visit to Red Wing I’ve got a little obsessed with factory tours. Whenever a brand lets me see where they make their stuff – I jump at the opportunity.

I’ve spent days in shirt factories in North Carolina where women have been running the same sewing machines for two decades. I’ve hunted down leather goods tanneries in Chicago that could identify the age of any hide just by holding it in their hands. I’ve toured necktie factories in NYC teaching dudes old techniques that most people don’t realise aren’t taught in America anymore.

Each time I walk out of one of these places I feel like a privileged asshole that just caught a glimpse into this world of American craftsmanship that’s slowly fading away. Lets walk through some of my favourite American made brands that I believe are worth your hard earned dollar. Brands that don’t have American flags embroidered on everything they sell but are still producing top notch goods that support American jobs.

Alden Shoes is hands down my favourite pair of shoes being made in America today. Operating out of Middleborough, Massachusetts since 1884 Alden crafts some of the finest mens shoes you can buy. Right now I own three pairs: A shell cordovan pair I’ve been breaking in for the past four years that now have the most beautiful patina.

A suede chukka boot that feel like they were molded to my foot. And a pair of loafers I’m currently breaking in. Prices range from $550-$750 for most styles.

But these bad boys are meant to be resoled, not replaced. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made- Brands-Worth-Supporting-And-Why-It-Might-be-7dd58778-4dd0-4a05-986a-82c3843665b2_3.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-Made Brands Worth Supporting And Why It Might be_7dd58778-4dd0-4a05-986a-82c3843665b2_3″ /> When I visited the factory back in February I was blown away. Did you know each pair of shoes has over 130 steps to make completed? Every single person I talked to had been working at Alden for at least a decade.

Some for over twenty years. I even met a few who told me they work beside their fathers….three or four generations at Alden. When I asked the factory manager what sets American shoemaking apart from the world he didn’t skip a beat. “We don’t make shoes to just sell shoes.

We make shoes to make the best shoes.” Gitman Bros is where I now buy all my dress shirts. Sitting behind rows of women in Ashland, Pennsylvania powering bolt after bolt of fabric through giant industrial sewing machines is something you have to see to believe. They are sewing on collars and doing button jetting like I could attempt to do in my garage but fail so miserably at it wouldn’t even be funny.

Gitman sells there oxfords for $165-$195 depending on the material. That’s three, sometimes four times what you’ll spend at your local department store. But I promise you something.

After owning a Gitman Oxford and something made at Target you’ll notice the cheap shirts start to deform after a few washes. They fade. The stitching starts to unravel.

But my Gitman Oxford looks like I just bought it shirt after fifty washes. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made-that_Might-be-Worth-your-Atten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_0.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made that_Might be Worth your Aten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_0″ /> Gitman utilizes single needle stitching. Pattern match their garments at the seams. Double reinforce gussets.

Small things you never think about when looking at a shirt but are grateful when your shirt begins to age. My oldest Gitman is now pushing five years old and looks better than when I bought it. Let’s talk jeans.

What other domestic produced product can you think of that is more American than denim? Denim is king when it comes to manufacturing in the USA. Raleigh Denim out of North Carolina are making some of the finest jeans out right now.

Period. Hands down. I stand by the fact that they hold there own with Japan.

And thats saying something. Victor and Sarah Blanchard began Raleigh Denim in 2007 and have since created an American denim brand that could hang with many of their high-end competition. Vintage machinery is utilised (some rescued from bankrupt factories!) to hand craft some of the finest denim around.

Denim that gets better with you as you wear them over the years instead of falling apart. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made-that_Might-be-Worth-your-Atten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_1.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made that_Might be Worth your Aten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_1″ /> I bought into Raleigh around five years ago now and have since added two others to my rotation. At $295 they’r not cheap. (Jess still laughs at me about spending that much on a pair of jeans.) But for the life these jeans have given me I’ll gladly pay it. Where else can you spend that kind of money on a pair of jeans and have them outlive two other cheaper pairs?

Watch them develop natural fades as oppossed to wearing thin and ripping at the seams? Raleigh source there denim from Cone Mills White Oak. Which, was until it closed in 2017 America’s last standing selvedge denim mill.

Thankfully Raleigh was smart and stock piled all of Cone’s denim when they announced they were shutting their doors. When Victor gave me a tour of their workshop he pulled out a notebook. Every pair of jeans Raleigh produces has its own sheet of paper where Victor maps out what kind of fade pattern he’d like to see based off of that lot of denim. “These aren’t just jeans,” Victor began. “They’re the blank canvas to the next ten years of your life.” It sounds so corny but its true.

Look at my oldest pair of Raleighs. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-Made-that_Might-be-Worth-your-Atten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_2.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made that_Might be Worth your Aten_d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9d68ee_2″ /> You can see the fade pattern on my right thigh from my phone always resting in my hand when I walk. The unnatural fade on my back pockets from my constantly rubbing wallet. If you were to study those creases you can literally map out how I walk, sit down, and fold my jeans to take a dump.

Hackwith Design House is another awesome brand I found out of Minnesota. Jess saw one of there women’s dresses and raved about the quality so I looked into there menswear. Holy shit.

Did I mention their heavyweight cotton jumpers have been my uniform all winter? Heavy enough that I can throw on a jumper and not wear a jacket but refined enough to wear downtown. They only do made to order production which eliminates most waste and overstock.

Price point is a reflection of there Minneapolis production facilities and limited quantities but trust me when I say it’s worth every penny. Most of there mens jumpers range from $175-$250. Filson has been kicking around since 18 97.

Started in Seattle those days you can’t swing a dead cat without hitting a hipster rocking Filson. But that doesn’t mean they don’t make some of the toughest gear around. Filson = Heaven when it comes to bags for me.

I’ve had my Filson backpack for eight years. Taken across London, Milan, and NYC fashion weeks. Crammed through countless airplane overhead compartments.

Used as a seat while waiting during flight delays. The twill has softened and the colour faded into this beautiful patina that tells a story of eight years worth of travel. Someone even asked me if they could buy it from me in London.

I was selling it to them for double what I originally paid. (Thanks but no thanks I said.) They weren’t cheap at about $350 but considering I use that bag multiple times a week for nearly a decade they were worth every penny. <img class=”size-full” src=”http: //joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-made brands_ Worth Supporting And Why.jpg_8d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb9_3.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made brands_ Worth Supporting And Why.jpg_8d4f2990-3872-4c62-b7f5-0fb8fb” /> Southwick has been cutting suits and blazers in Massachusetts since 19 29. Now owned by Brooks Brothers they have there own factory in Haverhill MA full of some of the finest tailors you’ll find. Half of my wardrobe consists of me rotating this navy Southwick blazer.

After four years the fit has molded to me perfectly thanks to them using a half canvas construction. The material has even stood up to constant wear and tear. Prices are comparable to Italian and English counterparts ranging from $900-$1,200 for suits depending on fabric.

But trust me when I say they can hang with the best of them quality wise. I’m also happy to see some younger brands bringing domestic production back to a more modern wardrobe. Taylor Stitch out of San Fran makes responsibly made clothes that feel like classic American workwear but with modern cuts and design.

Their Heavy Bag T-shirts are cut and sewn in Los Angeles from recycled material. They’re surprisingly thick without being bulky and have been my go-to casual shirt all winter because they’re hardy enough to throw on their own but refined enough to throw under another layer if need be. <img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30.jpgBA0F-C6D65_0.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30″ /> What I love about companies like Taylor Stitch is they aren’t afraid to tell you where their clothes are made and why. They won’t bullshit you by saying everything is produced in house when they only cut and sew a small portion of their garments domestically.

If they aren’t able to produce a piece in America at an affordable price they’ll flat out tell you. No fancy marketing mumbo jumbo to sway you. <img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30.jpgBA0F-C6D65_1.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30″ /> Hell, even Danner out of Portland continues to make some of the best hiking boots made right here in Oregon. They actually made all of the boots used in that Cheryl Strayed film Wild.

Their Mountain Light hikers. I’ve had mine resoled twice and they’re still going stronger than any other boots in my collection. The last thing I’ll leave you with is something I think all consumers forget about when discussing American made.

All of these brands offer repair services. When you buy something made in America you can send it back to the manufacturer to be repaired. Red Wing will resole your boots.

Filson will repair your bag. Alden can literally take your shoes apart and rebuild them from scratch. Every brand I’ve toured has employees who spend their days repairing their products.

Another level of worthwhile employment these brands are helping provide. <img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30.jpgBA0F-C6D65_2.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made brands_worth-supportingandwhy_95dbec3a-53ad-4d30″ /> American made will never be cheap. Full stop. If you want to buy stuff made in America you’re going to have to pay for it.

Thats just the way it is. Labour costs are much higher. Environmental regulations are stricter.

Supply chain is much shorter which means American made will always be out of price range for most Americans. Which creates this weird system where domestically made is some type of luxury when it really should be the baseline. Really only solution I’ve found is to change the way you think about buying clothes.

Buy less but buy better. Care about what your buying enough to care for it properly when it gets home. Sure some items will add up.

But buying three $25 shirts that you’ll only get one season out of or one $75 American made shirt that you’ll have for years? Might cost you the same amount of money up front but the value you’ll get from that American made shirt is where the price skyrockets. For me though the biggest reason to buy American made has nothing to do with the quality of the product your buying.

It has everything to do with the people actually making that product for you. Everyone I’ve met on my factory tours have this insane sense of pride about what they do. This isn’t someone’s fucking day job.

This is their career.

This is how they identify themselves. <img class=”size-full” src=”http://joewears.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/im1979_The-American-made brands_ worth-supportingandwhy.95dbec3a-53ad.jpg4D30-B.jpgA0F.jpg” alt=”im1979_The American-made brands_ worth-supportingandwhy.95dbec3a-53ad” /> The patternmaker at Gitman who has spent the last thirty years perfecting how a shirt should fit. The guy cutting hides at Alden that can look at any piece of leather and determine exactly where its from just by picking it up.

The machine operator at Filson that has her name stitched into every bag she helps make. These skilled tradesmen are what help fuel America’s economy. An economy that’s been pushed farther and farther underground as factories continue to close and replace workers with computers.

Buying American made isn’t going to single handily fix the industry but from touring these places I have learned that companies are hiring more workers and buying more equipment as demand continues to grow. Every pair of Alden shoes you purchase is keeping their factory open. Every pair of Raleigh jeans you buy helps that small business afford to hire more employees.

Buying American made clothes won’t save your world but you’ll be a part of someone’s. That I can get behind. The Iron Highland Boot