Last month I was sat in a pub in Manchester when this bloke walked in wearing a flat cap. Wool waistcoat. Pocket watch chain aggressively yanking his trousers halfway up his torso.
The overall vibe he gave off was one of having just binge-watched Peaky Blinders and embarked upon some very ill-advised eBay purchases. He even had that swagger Tommy Shelby shares with most British actors I deeply dislike—looking at everything around them like they’re both in a hurry and threatening violence against anyone within arm’s length. The only thing this dude was missing was speaking in a Birmingham accent and hiding a blade up his cap.
Don’t get me wrong here—he looked ridiculous. But he’s far from the first example of poor Brits falling prey to mediocre costume drama espousing terrible style on men.
Thanks to shows like Peaky Blinders on Netflix and HBO’s impressive stable of historic costume epics, we’re several men deep into waves of massively latching onto how the leading men dress and trying to replicate it for some reason.
In the past ten years I’ve seen the rise and autumn of Mad Men-suited sharp dads, men trying (and usually failing) to wear 20th century underwear as outerwear like Boardwalk Empire Steve Buscemi and now we’re in the midst of rotations through the looks of Succession grifters, Peaky Blinders gangsters, and The Crown royalty. The issue isn’t that these shows have incredible costume departments and the dudes that wear those costumes look incredible. It’s trying to wear similar pieces without actually wearing costumes to British pubs.
There’s a lot of skill to translating what makes those styles incredible to recreate the essence of it in real life. So let’s explore how we can steal from these great shows without tricking our buddies into thinking we’re hosting covert costume dramas in our homes. Succession Honestly, easiest of the three for real life applications because it’s actually set in the present day.
The heavy wealth-but-they’d-fucking-hide-it styling of the Roy family revolves around buying ludicrously expensive basics that only other billionaires would notice. Superfine merino crew necks, tailored black coats, perfectly cut neutral suits sans distracting details all work because they actually fucking work. Three things I will pilfer from Succession styling are the appreciation for incredible quality on basics, insane fit, and neutrality.
I’ve definitely found myself leaning into that mindset more and more over the past few years. Better quality basics that last longer and wear better rather than trying to make a statement with louder pieces. What doesn’t work about_succession_style is buying the full conglomerate wardrobes at once or thinking “fuck it” and slinging on a cartwheel necklace.
Pieces of Succession styling I’ve bought into? Charcoal cashmere overcoat that’s just slightly too long for my taste pre-Succession. A couple insanely plain but wonderfully crafted merino jumpers in biscuit and navy that were more than I care to spend.
Finding myself caring more about the white shirt game than ever before. What I haven’t done is jumped into every aspect of the styling at once or started saying “fuck” as a period. Peaky Blinders Much more slippery slope here.
Flat caps swinging through pubs nationwide barely able to order a pint without sneering at someone with their facial expressions alone is where we draw the line. Peaky fucking Blinders. There’s a lot to love about the 19 vision the Shelby family bring to workwear-turned-gangster-wear.
I’m as guilty as the next man of desiring those thick fabrics, sharper mens cuts, and older traditions these styles embody. But there’s a fine line between channeling that influence and dressing like you need to collect mob rent. Two things I’ll steal from Peaky Blinders are a focus on heavier fabrics and classic mens silhouettes stemming from old school British manufacturers.
A properly made tweed jacket that actually has some heft to it? Yes please. Thick selvedge denim with a great pair of boots is another homerun.
Y’know what’s not a homerun? Flat caps unless you’re going to be spending time where actual countryside exists. Not Leicester city centre, a Wagamama.
My attempts at Peaky-inspired styling have been less than thou Royalist in theory. I’ve been known to throw on a heavier wool coat that’ll nod to Peaky without wearing an actual waistcoat under my shirt. Instead I’ll leave the waistcoat out and stick to a plain modern crew neck.
That great boot selection I mentioned? I’ll still throw on those but with modern trousers rather than high waisted wool with crazy pleats. It’s about pulling influences without ripping off every single element of what makes those shows amazing.
For me that means one powerful piece with obvious Peaky influence per outfit and nothing more. Throw that beautiful wool coat over some jeans and a plain tee and you’re good to channel that spirit without dressing like you do. The Crown Similar vein to Peaky Blinders for reasons I’ll get into but The Crown does throw one huge curveball at would be style thieves—the audience doesn’t see these guys working.
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We see them going about their royal lives and dapper looks are very much a part of that. What we don’t see is Fred Andrews schlepping home from work in that countryside kit. That waxed jacket, barbour, Shetland jumper/tracker jacket combo is as British as you can get.
Those pieces have been staples of the stylized British wardrobe for as long as we’ve cared about stylized British wardrobes. Throw The Crown on that heritage hat because it did reinvigorate those rural styles to a modern audience who’d forgotten about them. I love how The Crown waxes poetic on great British style.
That mossy green Shetland jumper works great over slim modern selvedge denim and isn’t something I’d typically gravitate toward. A waxed jacket works just as well with some modern boots when you’re not actually tromping through the mud. Television shows are a minefield for inspiring men’s style.
There’s a lot of pitfalls with how guys interpret styles they see on screen. Here are four things I’ve learned along the way that’ll help you out. Life context.
Do you work in an office where you’ll actually wear that Succession-like power suit? Full on Peaky workwear isn’t doing actual work anywhere let alone something that will hold up to actually getting physical. Own a cottage in the countryside where you’ll wear tweed?
By all means, buy that amazing jacket. Fail these tests? You’re likely just dressing like a silly asshole.
Mix in modern pieces. That Shetland jumper inspired by The Crown looks fresh paired with slim jeans and clean white trainers. That Succession-inspired overcoat is amazing draping over a simple modern outfit rather than trying to duplicate their family uniforms.
Focus on inspiring elements not specifics. What makes those shows great isn’t the tie pins and pocket squares. It’s fit.
It’s fabric choice. It’s subtle nods to traditions of British style that have been lost over the years. Channel that.
Don’t go full podcast. One item heavy with inspiration from your favourite show is great. Two or more and you’re asking to feel like a man dressed up as himself.
That’s reserved for full on period pieces like Peaky and The Crown. I’ve done every crime listed above and burned through chunks of money as a result. Too much tie bar.
Too wrinkled shirts. Suits a few decades too early. Heavyweight textured waistcoats that just shout “PEAKY BITCHES”.
The list goes on. My favourites have been tying into actual British style that those shows were inspired by.
Heavy wool coat that reminds me of Peaky but fits better and is tailored to modern length.
Great knitwear that channels The Crown without looking like the dickens. Quality basics that actually piss all over what Succession spends on their shirts. Succession.
Peaky Blinders. The Crown. Study them.
Learn what makes them work and apply those lessons to your life. You’re not actually a tech mogul, Birmingham gangster, or heir to the throne. Unless you are heading to a costume party, then by all means access that inner heir.
Just step down from your hightop perch when ordering a pint. Chances are you’ll fuck it up and the barman will ask if you’re actually there for the Peaky Blinders themed pub quiz happening tonight rather than pouring you one with admiration.
