Growing up in the UK, my first suit from Marks & Spencer at age fourteen aside, was arguably Wilkinson Sword. OK, false memory – but my first actual suit. Purchased by my father for interviews when selecting my sixth-form college, it was a charcoal 2-button number bought on sale in M&S’s January half-price dash and cost what seemed at the time a frankly outrageous amount of money for a teenage boy.
Despite spending twenty minutes suffocating in the small-room-with-two-way-mirrors situation that is an M&S fitting room whilst an ancient man muttered with a tape measure hanging down around his neck “Good shoulders on you lad” I knew I had hit suit-aquadorance. Fast forward twenty years and not much has changed. After university interviews and an ungodly number of first jobs that suit saw me through until God knows when, somewhere in my second year at Manchester working Saturdays took its toll and that baby shredded after one-too-many nights out.
But I learnt to love M&S; though my wardrobe is now plastered in labels that would make my adolescent self recoil in horror. Marks & Spencer seem to occupy this unique place in British retail.
They are perennially the butt of middle-aged sofa jokes whilst simultaneously being a secret (and not so secret) weapon in all of our wardrobes.
Regardless of how avant-garde you like to think you are I can guarantee someone will whip out their trusty phone midway through an industry drinks event post-three glasses of complimentary fizz and hiss “Actually I only wear M&S for underwear” as if admitting they get their car serviced at Halfords. I want to talk specifically about their Collection range however, their higher-end offering. It’s a step up from their main line in terms of price but not as luxe as their now-defunct Autograph range; R.I.P. decent M&S shirt (< – click that for a deep dive).
The Collection offers middle-ground with somewhat better tailored pieces and materials than their core range across all departments. Whether or not they’re worth an extra twenty quid on average than their standard items has been pondered over many a begrudging visit to the café at Manchester Airport when fulfilling my duties as your lovely narrator. I’ve got some thoughts.
Knitwear is honestly where they shine; specifically their Collection knitwear. I own a grey cashmere crew neck that I purchased for £99 back around four years ago that has survived numerous washes and outlasted countless jumpers from brands charging at least twice as much. They buy it in so much bloody cashmere that they’re able to keep prices as reasonable as they are.
While their standard range cashmere is still great, Collection cashmere has a slightly finer knit, with much better cuff and collar ribbing that actually stays ribbed after wearing half a dozen times. Expect very classic colourways too; lots of navy, grey, black and probably a maroon if they’re feeling adventurous. My favourite pick from the range is a roll-neck that’s basically been my go-to winter uniform over the last few years.
They do them in their standard line too, but the material is a touch too lightweight for my liking. It’s wonderfully mid-weighted; thick enough to wear on its own but without being itchy whilst still fine enough to layer under coats. I’ve gone through at least two friends recommending them every autumn as they inevitably send me a message along the lines of “Needing to look smart but don’t want to spend much.
Help?” “Funny you should ask…” At £40 it’s double the price of their standard merino jumpers but so worth it for the improved shoulder fit and longevity. Shirts are a bit of a hit or miss. Where they absolutely kill it is in the fabrics; cotton feels noticeably thicker and there are some nice texture options in their Collection line you won’t find in their main range such as herringbones and dobby weaves.
Generally speaking the thread count is higher on their Collection formal shirts which makes for a softer hand and better drape. The actual cut can be inconsistent from season to season so I find I always end up having to try them on rather than order online. Their slim fit is cut pretty generously (unlike their standard line where slim actually means “ironic assuming you’ve exercised in the last decade”) and their standard is… well let’s just say they could comfortably fit both your dad AND his tool kit in there.
Having said that, their white twill shirt from the Collection line is phenomenal. With an almost invisible self-stripe it gives your shirt some movement without making you look like Chris Farley in Black Sheep. Retains its collar up impressively well too after multiple wears and washes.
I’ve had mine for nearly 3 years of weekly wears and still looks suitable smart for client calls. The Collection really starts to flex its muscles when we start talking coats. Wool coats and macs, especially.
They do a camel wool coat every year that usually sells with a slightly Crombie-esque cut that looks a lot smarter and costs a lot less than the £150-odd they ask for it. It has enough wool in it (generally 70-80% blend) to drape well but the polyester content means that London’s shit weather won’t ruin it the way a 100% wool coat would. Even the internal finishing of the seams is up there with coats triple the price; bound and with a thick lining that doesn’t immediately rip at the edges.
Their macs are worth a shout too. The Collection version uses much better waterproofing and hardware. There’s always a navy DB option with them that sports proper welted pockets instead of the flap-happy versions you get on their standard offering.
Not only does the collar stay popped up rather than limp down around your neck as soon as it senses water, but it’s just a legitimately great raincoat. The one area I don’t think their Collection offers any huge benefit over their standard is their trousers. Whilst they use better wool blends for their winter trousers and higher thread count cottons for their summer fabrics the cuts all seem to be hilariously average.
Not classic but not contemporary. Just…there. Their signature bleach ankle is unfortunately prevalent across both lines too.
That isn’t to say there aren’t exceptions; their Collection formal trousers with half-Canvas construction are great when they stick to simple classics. There’s a pair of charcoal ones with a thin tape detail running up the outseam that I’ve worn to countless interviews and still feel smart enough for work. The one department that always seems to go under-celebrated for me are their leather goods.
In their Collection they stock a rotating range of leather portfolios, document holders and wash bags that use legitimately great full grain leather for prices that make me question how they profit. I picked up a tan leather card holder for £25 three years ago that’s now developed such a nice patina that I’ve had design students ask me where I got it from (Yes. Shamefully Urban Outfitters.
No. It’s not vintage Connolly.) The stitching has held up remarkably well to being crushed in my breast pocket every day and the leather has only got better with age rather than started to degrade like I half expected at that price point. Their belts are worth mentioning too.
Their Collection formal belts use a nicer grade of leather with edge finishing you’d usually only see in the £70+ markets. They won’t win any awards compared to some of the specialist leather goods brands out there of course but if you’re looking for a solid starting point for decent accessories they’re great. Onto suits.
Suiting was where my questionable M&S relationship began after all. Collection suiting has remained impressively high-quality for the price as of late. Having moved to a half-Canvas construction with their suits you can really notice the difference when they’re fitted properly to your body as opposed to their completely fused standard line.
They do a navy birdseye that comes and goes each year in slightly tweaked fits that is honestly the best “first proper interview suit” you’ll find on the high street. Expect to pay £199 but the shoulder line is natural with no weird padding and the actual chest piece moulds to your body slightly over time as opposed to lying flat and stubborn like some cheaper suits. The one thing that M&S constantly disappoints on – Collection or not – are their shirt collars.
There’s something about the way they cut them that just doesn’t seem to work. They either flare out too far or flop over disappointingly as the day wears on. It makes no sense because the bodies of their shirts are often cut excellently but that neckline puts me off recommending them 90% of the time.
The collaboration they did with the Scottish mill Johnstons of Elgin a few years back was a genius move. Seriously impressive cashmere for prices that while not cheap, were anomalously good value for the quality. If you can find them second hand or stumble across them on sale I would thoroughly recommend hunting them down; they’re worth every penny and some of the best M&S has to offer.
Last but by no means least, the best time to shop M&S Collection? Wait for the sales. Everything they sell is built on discounts; full price often feels like a premium you don’t need to pay if you can wait a few months.
Expect to see 50% off signs across all Collection items in their Summer/ Winter sales. I’ve been known to get ridiculously excited about end-of-season emails… Marks & Spencer has stayed somewhat inconsistently high-quality at a time where so many other high street brands have stripped their products of anything remotely resembling nice fabrics. There’s clearly a line they won’t cross that their customers wouldnt stand for (“you mean they don’t make their own-label t-shirts in North Korea?” Me neither bud, me neither.) but they have maintained a level of quality that most of the high street can only dream of.
SO WHAT SHOULD YOU BUY?
Cashmere and Merino Knitwear from their Collection. Full stop.
Tops it in my opinion. Coats too; especially their wool coats and macs. Great value at full price.
Leather goods too; arguably better than their clothing department. Solid choices that make great gifts and look (a lot) more expensive. What can you pretty much ONLY buy from the main range?
Their t-shirts and casual basics. All of the fleeting trend pieces that will most definitely not see you through next winter, and sadly their shoes. How do I know I’ll still be popping into M&S weekly whilst my slightly more esteemed wardrobe contemporaries mock me from their shelves?
Well…I already have.
